Braless in Nairobi !! Read on …

                        9^th Feb … ignore the automatic blogger date.

I'm here in Nairobi !   Lying on my bed gently sweating … not surprising really as I left home yesterday in a temperature of minus 6 C, and here in Nairobi it's approx 25 C.   No wonder I can't stop drinking water.   Maybe it might be a good idea to add some rehydration salts to what I'm drinking, at least for a day or two until my body gets over the tiredness from the flight and adjusts to the heat.  At the moment my body is telling me I need a rest … hence lying on the bed at 5 p.m.

Its wonderful to be back !   Remember Pope John Paul II used to kiss the soil of each new place he went to ?  I feel like doing that every time I come here, if I could creak my way down to the ground, … but I think I'd either get arrested, or more likely, not be able to stand up again afterwards !  

I was met at the airport by Peterson, the Anglican Guest House  taxi driver.  He took me first to the bus office in the River Road area of town to book my onward ticket for tomorrow to Kisumu.

About £10, which is a lot cheaper than flying … which would be about £150.   And I'll get to see the glories of the Rift Valley .  On the way to the ACK Guest House, the traffic was its usual appalling self; long blockages at traffic lights, cars winding in and out, people dashing across roads and between buses.  I saw a lovely local 'Citi Hoppa' bus … which had a three piece lounge suite tied on the roof rack … with a man sitting on one of the chairs up there, as the bus weaved in and out of the traffic !   Welcome to Africa !  Nairobi (apart from the ever-increasing traffic problem) looks and smells just the same, and I love it; bougainvillea, hibiscus flowers, palms and fever trees lining the main roads,  and the smell of hot dust, sweaty people, and spices … welcome back to Africa !

The guest house is a nice place to stay; I booked in and as my room wasn't ready, went to the outside 'cafe' area, which is small open sided bandas, and shading trees, to buy a cup of tea.   I had forgotten it wouldn't be English tea, in a tea pot, with a jug of hot water to add, but instead a mug of boiled powdered milk and water, with a tea bag and sugar added.   Boiled powdered milk has a taste all of its own … so welcome to Africa again !   An American man came and sat for a chat, (he was an agricultural advisor on sustainable farming in the drier areas) and I asked him about the forthcoming general and presidential elections.   They appear to be being held either in August or December … I need to know so we don't have a HATW team here during them … after the riots and killings of the last general election.

My room is large, with two well netted beds, and a separate shower room, which is where I headed first.   I threw my undies into the shower to wash them.   They would dry in an hour or so pegged onto the window burglar mesh.   But then … BIG problem !   I appear to have come to Kenya with only one bra, which I wore on the journey and which was now soaking wet !  Solution … the 37 assorted bra's I have for the mission ladies !   So I tried on several and found two that fit !   A bit more gaudy and lacey and up-lifting than my usual style … but needs must !   Thank goodness I had them ! 

After an excellent lunch here, (tilapia, curried potatoes, sukuma wiki (a type of chopped dark kale), a sort of ratatouille made with tomatoes, aubergines, courgettes and carrots ?  … and chappatis, followed by pineapple, pawpaw and water melon … I had a nap, setting my alarm for 3, when I went in a taxi to the main bookshop to have a look see at what they had on the Luo people.   I found a few books, and a child's reading primer for step-grandson to be, so he can see what children here learn on.   My taxi driver this time was Alec, half Maasai, wearing a Yorkshire flat cap ! 

Back at the guest house, I dropped off my books, and went out, by myself, on foot, to find where I could buy a Kenya sim card for my spare phone.  I'm getting braver … and after asking several askari's found a shop where I could get one.   They are all so polite and want to be helpful.  The man there fitted it, and topped it up too all for a few pounds equivalent.   So now I'll be able to call Paul, and Morris the tuk-tuk driver at local rates … about 3 bob a call, or next to nothing !

The guest house has wifi … but I can't for some reason get connected to it.   I guess I'll have to wait 'til I get to Kisumu and the Cyber Caff with the Arabic keyboard and the missing keys !  What fun !

Today has arrived !

And the sun is shining !   A good omen I think !    I saw our Bishop yesterday who wished me well, and gave me his blessing, which was nice.

Last minute panic ... I had to go to town to post something to son; then I went to buy a cheap, cheap mobile phone to take with me, so I can use that one with a Kenya sim card for local calls there.   My usual phone will have its UK sim card so I can text family.   Its charging .... must remember to pack it .... better do so NOW !!

I've been thinking about the altitude in Kenya.  People just don't realise that when they are in Nairobi, they are about a mile high from sea level !    And in Kisumu, I'll be about three quarters of a mile high !    It will be wonderful to see the Rift Valley opening up as we leave Nairobi .... one of the seven wonders of the world in my opinion. 

This is Africa ... be prepared to weep.

http://www.hatw.org.uk/default.asp?section=7&id=145

Money, money, money ...

Since I returned from Kenya last year, I've been putting all my small change (1p, 2p and 5p coins) into a small Luo pot which was given to me years ago by Josephs mother.    I also bully my friends and anyone I know to donate their small change to the pot.  Everyone seems to have a small change jar.

Last year, from March to the beginning of December, I collected over £100 in small change, from myself and friends.  It was hell to count and bag up, but it swells the HATW coffers.  

I'm still collecting, and have continued to spread the word, helped by a talk I did at the local W.I.   So as the pot was full, I counted it today ... £22 since Christmas.    People are knocking on the door with bags of change !   SOMEONE, who hasn't owned up yet, pushed a bag of 1p's through my letter box, and it burst as it hit the floor ! 

My Luo pot for pennies.

Three days to go.

I've packed and locked my big bag, (medical kit and childrens clothes and ladies bra's is all it contains) and my neighbour came round to help me hoist it onto my spring balance.  Took out a couple of books and its now 1 kg under weight, so thats OK.   (22kg of ladies bra's ??)  Only my smaller bag to pack when I've done some ironing. 

Been thinking about the number of times I've been to Kenya.   When I first went in 1968, Nairobi was only just loosing its 'settler' look, after independence in 1963.   Then, the Maasai still walked down Kenyatta Avenue wearing nothing but a red blanket over one shoulder.   My mother when she visited and we took her to the Ngong Hills, sat down to chat to a Maasai elder ... the wind blew his blanket aside !!   She went nearly as red as the mans blanket.

Nairobi's streets are now all tarmac, whereas I remember some still being red murram earth.   The city is rapidly becoming just like any other city in the world; sky-scrapers dwarfing the few remaining buildings like the Norfolk Hotel which date back to the 1920's and 30's.   Those were the days when one was asked, "Are you married, or do you live in Kenya ?"  !!   Ahh ... the time of the hedonistic happy valley set; Lord Errol, Hugh Cholmondeley,  Josslyn Hay, Karen Blixen ....  Thankfully, its all different now, though some of their descendants are now Kenya citizens and run farms. 

Enough of that; I'm going to be visiting a shanty town which couldn't be more different to life in those days.   I've been considering trying to set one of my short stories in Pandipieri, with the locals as the characters .... just as I set some of my earlier ones with the Maasai ... want to read one ?     I'll see if I can find them !  


UPDATE:     I've found them in the files my son rescued from my laptop when it went wrong; trouble is, I can't open them !  I'll have to consult him .... when I get back.

Medical matters and shopping and other things ...

I collected a medical kit I'm borrowing from HATW.   Goodness me !   Enough stuff in it to equip a third world clinic !   At least there are some things I can weed out ... like the penicillin (I'm allergic) and the first aid handbook, and about 100 plasters and two tubes of Savlon.    And as for the self-test kit for malaria ... ugh !   I don't fancy sticking needles in myself !   The senna tablets are definitey no use, with all that lovely fruit available, so they are staying here.   I hope I dont need to use all the sterile syringes.

I went to town today and spent what seemed like a vast amount of money ... currency ... 36,000 Kenya shillings - sounds a lot, but its not; my malaria tabs, £50 on my phone; some treats like English (sorry, Scottish !) shortbread for Paul and Lucy, and sweeties for kids on the work site. 

Packing .... well, I've done a lot of it, as I always do.   Then the day before I go, or even on the morning of zero day, I unpack and repack !   Doesn't everyone ?   The daughter of an old friend of mine has offered to take me to Heathrow; its really kind of her.  #3 daughter has promised to collect me from Heathrow when I get back.   Better remind her to take a thick coat and maybe a hot, hot water bottle when she collects me !   Last year I gave away the coat I took with me, so needed some warm clothes the moment I stepped off the bus !

Six days to go !

We had a meeting at Hands Around the World this morning, at which we discussed what I need to find out, photos to take, finance to discuss.    Brought more paper work home, and more has already come via email.   I won't need to take a book to read ... I'll have three inches of paperwork !   It is very necessary for us to have good accounts, and forward planning and projections for information for trusts and benefactors that we ask for money.   But its very hard to try and get this over to the African half of any project.   It is assumed that any white person or European/American country is awash with freely available money.   Accountability isn't considered at all.

I hadn't realised a picture on the wall that I look at every time I'm in the office was of a previous project at Pandipieri, done by HATW ... the lady in the sleeveless top might be a familiar face to some people ...

Bala House, at Nyalenda .... part of the Pandipieri mission, which has buildings to do with projects scattered here, there and everywhere in the poor part of Kisumu.

Nursery rhymes, African style !

I've been trying to give some traditional English nursery rhymes an African slant !   Children love talking to a white person, and I love chatting to them !   I must see if the children living near the work site still remember 'Four stiff standers, four dilly-danders ...' which I taught them last year.

How about this for a start ?

"This little goat went to market,
This little goat in the shamba.
This little goat ate ugali,
This little goat had none !
And this little goat went 'baa, baa, baa, all the way home' !"

Lists

I keep thinking of things I need to take with me; a friend suggested that if I were more organised, I'd have a list !     I don't 'do' lists, I never have ... I just muddle through.   But I am charging up my iPod, so I can put some new stuff on it to take with me.   And I must find my flight socks ... and a soluble aspirin to take before boarding the plane.   Does either do any good ?   But I always do the socks and aspirin, and somehow it seems tempting something or other NOT to !  

I saw the nurse at the surgery today, and have ordered malarone.  She says the reason most people dont use it, is that its very expensive.  She's right there !   £86 for a months supply !   Phew !

Had several emails today from people in Kisumu, or others connected:  one from the sponsor of Lucy at the Covenant orphanage (he's an ex Kenya teacher friend now living in Thailand).   He wants to send her some money via me.   Another email from Nigel/Gill who went on the project last year - they want to send small gifts.  One from Lucy (wife of Paul who is in charge of the project) asking me if its possible to get her a nurses breast watch.  It is.   Amazon to the rescue. Another from the manager of the guest house where I'm staying telling me again how much it will cost, rather than answering my query about whether they want cash, or can I pay Visa ?   I must have worded my question wrongly as its so easy to do when asking questions in Africa !  

I must get out my Luo language books and have a quick look through them again ... 

I go a week tomorrow ...    

Life

Here's a thought which I read in the paper I was about to use to light the fire ! 

"We should add life to our days; not days to our life !"    

My attitude exactly !   This is why I'm working in a slum in Africa !

Ten days to go

The last week has been somewhat hectic.    I've checked my innoculations; got air tickets; my visa for Kenya has come and I've tried out doxycycline (anti-malarial) again.   Last year I tended to feel sick after taking it, but put that down to Nigels porridge (!) ... but having had it a couple of mornings, have decided I ought to forgive Nigel, for I felt sick again !   I'm going to see the nurse again on Tuesday and ask about malarone instead of doxy.   If the worst comes to the worst, I'll have to stick with doxy.   I've checked at the office to see if I can borrow a medical kit which will save me buying sterile syringes, etc., and various drugs.   My mozzie net is OK, no holes.    My spare bed is getting covered with piles of stuff to take, including bags and bags of childrens clothes and bra's ! 

I've made contact with Joan, the bereavement counsellor who is also going to be in Kisumu at the same time as me ... she is training African women to be bereavement counsellors for children and adults who have lost someone to HIV.   It will be interesting to have long talks with her.  We are both staying in the same place.

Also, Pat who started the Covenant Orphanage and school we visited last year will be there and I've arranged to visit her and give her the collection of childrens clothes I have.    Bra's in sizes from minute to double jumbo will also go with me, to the Pandipieri womens clinic where I'm sure they will find new owners.

Later this week, we are having a special meeting with Nigel, myself and David, the CEO of Hands about the PALUOC project  which we worked on last year, and questions I will need to find answers to.   We have had a report from Paul, but it poses more questions than it answers !

I'm starting to get quite excited !   This isn't going to be a safari in the usual tourist sense, but more of a working holiday, in a place I love.   And as its snowing outside as I write this, certainly a bit warmer !   You can see why I don't go out in July !

Children like these are the reason I'm doing this ...

Off soon !

Today I booked my flights, and I have somewhere cheaper than the St Anna guest house I mentioned last time to stay in Kisumu ... the Mill Hill missionaries guest house.   I've contacted one of the sisters and she has booked me in.

I'm working my way through a list ... I've been to the doc to check what shots I need ... none, fortunately, as they are all still valid from last year.   I need some anti-malarials.   I'm posting my visa application later today.   I've booked flights ... going with Virgin this time, for a change !    I've booked somewhere to stay a night each end of the visit in Nairobi.    Its all happening. 

Better get my cases down from the loft to start packing ...

I'm off again soon !

My plan now is to go back to Kisumu sometime in February/early March, for about two weeks or so.   I want to check up on the project and its almost impossible to get a good idea of what is happening there via occasional emails.   We ask questions ... they are side-stepped and other unasked for information is given !   Its not the fault of Paul or Lucy ... its just the African way; you tell people what you think they want to know, not what they are asking !     We soon got used to this when we lived in Kenya; you never ask 'Is this the road to so-and-so ?' for the inevitable answer will be 'Yes !'     Rather you ask the question 'Where does this road go to ?' ... then you get the answer you want !!

I've found what looks like a nice place to stay, at least at the start ... a covent run guest house ! 
http://www.stannaguesthouse.com/index.php?pageptr=home       It costs about KSh. 2000 per day, or around £16.    It would be far cheaper to cater for myself, and see if I can find somewhere free to stay, but as I'll be by myself, I thought a bit of security was worth paying for.   I'll contact Morris,  the tuk-tuk driver we used all the time last year as transport.  

Now to get the visa .... and the flights !   Maybe fly to Kisumu as I think I want to avoid Nairobi as security is on high alert there.

Its December now ...time for an update !

I haven't  written anything for several months, but I've not been idle !    Since the late summer, I've been volunteering in the Hands Around the World offices, which are about six miles from where I live.   Mostly office work, but interesting.  I'm getting familiar with incoming emails, banking, CRB's,  where the UK embassies are in the countries we work in, how to mend and dip mozzie nets, etc etc., ... and I make the office teas !    We are a group of about four volunteers, who are trying to cover the work done by two paid staff, to whom the recession has sadly brought redundancy.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ 

Meanwhile, I'm still doing a lot of reading linked to Kenya, street children, HIV...

A few sentences from Bill Bryson's recent book  'At Home'  could be describing African street children  (as well as the Victorian poor in the UK).   "By the time they were seven or eight, many children were sent out on to the streets to fend for themselves.  By the 1860's, London alone had an estimated one hundred thousand 'street Arabs' who had no education, no skills, no purpose and no future. 'Their very number  makes one stand aghast,' one contemporary recorded."

I managed to find in an American secondhand book shop (isn't the internet wonderful !) a copy of this book:- 

It is the result of studies done twelve years ago in Nairobi, but it applies equally to all cities in Africa ... and indeed in India, South America ...

Some of it is heart-rending:-

"A street child in Kenya is labelled 'chokora' a derogatory term that denotes a rubbish scavenger.  This name-tag has demeaned and stigmatized street children, cutting them off from the rest of the human race."

and ...


"The street child is 'chokora'.   This means that he is one with the very rubbish on which he depends for survival, and which is the material context of his daily life. Like rubbish, he is to be thrown away.  Society has no further use for him. He is a non-person, someone who is not thought to have any rights, or even to be recognized by the law.  Adults can therefore treat him as a literal 'outlaw', one to whom the law does not apply. He is rubbish."

I wept ...